Honeymoon
to Khajuraho
About
the Place
Khajuraho is well known for its temples. The temples of Khajuraho are one of
India’s major attractions. They are India’s unique gift to the world,
representing, as they do, a paean to life, to love, to joy; perfect in
execution and sublime in expression. Life, in every form and mood, has been
captured in stone, testifying not only to the craftsman’s artistry but
also to the extraordinary breadth of vision of the Chandela Rajputs under
whose rule the temples were conceived and constructed.
The Khajuraho temples were built in the short span of a hundred years, from
950-1050 A.D. in a truly inspired burst of creativity. Of the 85 original
temples, 22 have survived till today to constitute one
of the world’s great artistic wonders. Once a great chandela
capital, Khajuraho is now a quiet village. Rediscovered only in this
century, restored and cleaned, the temples of Khajuraho once again testify
to a past glory. Best Season to visit Khajuraho is July to March.
What To See
Architecturally the temples are unique, being very different from the temple
prototype of their period. Each stands on a high masonry platform with a
marked upward direction in the structure, further enhanced by vertical
projections to create the effect of grace and lightness. Each of the chief
compartments is mounted by its own roof, grouped so that the highest is in
the centre, the lowest over the portico; a highly imaginative recreation of
the rising peaks of the Himalayas, abode of the gods.
The three main compartments are the entrance (ardha-mandapa), assembly hall
(mandapa) and sanctum (garbha griha), with further additions in the more
developed temples.
Three geographical divisions group the temples: western, eastern and
southern.
Western Group
Kandariya Mahadeo : The largest most
typical Khajuraho temple, it soars 31 m high. Dedicated to Shiva, the
sanctum sanctorum enshrines a lingam. The main shrine is exquisitely carved
and features, in delicate detail, gods, goddesses, celestial maidens and
lovers. Particularly noteworthy are the entrance arch, the ceilings and
pillars of the interior compartments.
Chaunsat Yogini : The only granite
temple and the earliest surviving shrine of the group (900 A.D.), it is
dedicated to Kali. Only 35 of the original 65 shrines remain. Another Kali
temple Originally dedicated to Vishnu) is the Devi Jagdambe Temple.
Chitragupta Temple : Facing eastwards to
the rising sun, the temple is dedicated to the sun god, Surya. The image of
the deity in the inner sanctum is particularly imposing: five feet high, and
driving a horse-drawn chariot. The group scenes depict royal processions,
haunting scenes and group dances, reflecting the lavish lifestyle of the
Chandela courts.
Vishwanath Temple : A three-headed image
of Brahma is enshrined in this temple. The approach is equally impressive,
with lions flanking the northern and elephants the southern steps that lead
up to it. A Nandi bull faces the shrine.
Lakshmana Temple : The lintel over the
entrance of this beautiful Vaishnavite temple shows the trinity of Brahma,
Vishnu and Shiva with Lakshmi, Vishnu’s consort. The finely carved sanctum
has a three-headed idol of Vishnu’s incarnations, Narasimha and Varaha.
This boar incarnation also appears in a nine-feet-high statue at the Varaha
Temple.
Matanageswara Temple : Still a living
place of worship, the temple is dedicated to Shiva, has an eight-feet-high
lingam, and is outside the precincts of the Western Group.
Eastern Group
Parsvanath Temple : The group’s
largest Jain temple and exquisite in detail. The sculptures on the northern
outer wall are particularly noteworthy. The themes depict, in charming
detail everyday activity. Within, a throne faces the bull emblem of the
first tirthankra, Adinath. The Parsvanath image was installed in 1860.
Ghantai Temple : This Jain temple has a
frieze which depicts the 16 dreams of Mahavira’s mother, and a Jain
goddess on a winged Garuda.
Adinath Temple : Dedicated to the Jain
saint, Adinath, the temple is lavishly embellished with sculpted figures,
including yakshis.
The three Hindu temples of the group are the Brahma, containing a four-faced
lingam, the Vamana, which is adorned on its outer walls with carvings of
apsaras in a variety of sensuous attitudes; and the Javari, with a
richly-carved gateway and exterior sculptures.
Southern Group
Duladeo Temple : Dedicated to Shiva, the
apsara and ornamented figures are the temple’s most striking features.
Chaturbhuji Temple : This temple has a
massive, intricately-carved image of Vishnu in the sanctum.
Excursions
Panna National Park : Panna National
Park, 32 km away and a mere 30 minute drive from Khajuraho, spreads along
the river Ken. The jungles today harbour many species of wildlife. The tiger
can be glimpsed here, with other rare species such as the leopard, wolf and
gharial. Herds of bluebull, chinkara and sambar are a common sight.
At Ajaigarh, 80 km from Khajuraho, is a large isolated hilltop fort.
Kalinjar Fort, 25 km north, is even older.
On the road to Panna are the spectacular Pandav Falls.
Alternate picnic sites are Benisagar Dam, Raneh Falls and Ranguan Lake,
while interesting trips can be made to Rajgarh Palace, now being converted
into a Heritage Hotel, and Dhubela Museum. Further away is Bandhavgarh
National Park and tranquil Chitrakoot.
Festivals
The Khajuraho Festival of Dance is a weeklong event held every year in
February/March. It attracts the cream of Indian classical dancers who
perform amid the temples in the western enclosure.
Where to Stay?
Hotel Chandela – 5 star Deluxe – Khanjuraho, Distt. Chhatarpur,
Khajuraho – 471 606. Ph : 07686-42355
Hotel Jass Oberoi – 5 Star – By Pass Road, Khajuraho – 471 606. Ph :
07686-42344
Hotel Clarks Bundela – 4 Star – Khajuraho Village, Chhatarpur, Khajuraho
– 471 606. Ph : 07686-42386
Khajuraho Ashok – 3 Star – Khajuraho, Distt. Chhatarpur, Khajuraho –
471 606. Ph : 07686-44024
Hotel Jhankar - 2 Star –Airport Road, Khajuraho – 471 606. Ph :
07686-2063
Budget Hotels - Yogi Lodge and
Guesthouse (Ph – 07686 - 44158), Yogi Sharma Ashram Lodge, Hotel Gem
Palace (Ph - 44100) on Jain Temples Road, Hotel Surya (Ph - 44145) on Jain
Temples Road, Hotel Jain (Ph - 42352) on Jain Temples Road, Hotel Lakeside
(Ph - 44120) on Jain Temples Road, Hotel Sunset View (Ph - 44077) on Jain
Temples Road, Tourist Village of MP Tourism (Ph - 44128).
Mid-Range Hotels - Hotel Zen (Ph -
44288) on Jain Temples Road, Hotel Casa Di William (Ph - 44244), Rakshan
Guest House, Hotel Payal (Ph - 44064), Hotel Jhankar (Ph - 44063).
Deluxe Luxury Hotels - Holiday Inn (Ph - -42301), Clarks Bundela (Ph -
42386), Hotel Taj Chandela (42355), Hotel Jass Oberoi (42344).
Reservations at MPT Hotels - Central Reservations, Marketing Division, M.P.
State Tourism Development Corporation Limited, 4th Floor, Gangotri, T.T.
Nagar, Bhopal 462003. Tel. : (0755) 774340/42/43. Telefax: (0755) 774289.
Fax : (0755) 772384. Also all the Satellite and Regional offices of Madhya
Pradesh State Tourism Development Corporation Ltd.
How to Reach?
By Air : Regular services link Khajuraho
with Delhi, Agra and Varanasi.
By
Rail : The nearest rail heads are
Harpalpur (94 km) and Mahoba (61 km). Jhansi (172 km) is a convenient rail
head for those travelling from Delhi and Madras ; Satna (117 km), on the
Mumbai-Allahabad line of the Central Railway for those coming from Mumbai,
Calcutta and Varanasi.
By Road : Khajuraho is connected by
regular buses with Satna, Harpalpur, Jhansi and Mahoba.
Local Transport
The best way to get around Khajuraho is by bicycle which can be got on hire.
Another alternative is cycle rickshaws.
|